DISCOVER THE CULTURAL HEART OF NORWAY WITH PEOPLE OF THE NORTH
Fjell på vinteren i Setesdal
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Photo:
Iselinn Andersen / Visit Sørlandet
Fjell på vinteren i Setesdal
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Photo:
Iselinn Andersen / Visit Sørlandet
Discover Setesdal: Norwegian traditions through autumn and winter
Join Arne Hjeltnes, Stig Bareksten and Frida Ronge as they explore the Setesdal valley. From colourful autumn scenery to snow-covered mountains, the journey offers a glimpse into a part of Norway where cultural heritage is still woven into everyday life. Discover traditional music and craftsmanship, local flavours and outdoor experiences shaped by the changing seasons.
Syrtveit Gard: A family keeping Setesdal's traditions alive
A visit to Syrtveit Gard offers a close encounter with the living cultural heritage of Setesdal. Here, the Stulien family welcomes visitors to share the traditions, food and music that have shaped life in the valley for generations.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
The Syrtveit Family
Music and dance are an important part of family life. During the visit, Arne, Stig and Frida meet family members dressed in traditional Setesdal costumes, playing the Hardanger fiddle (hardingfele) and jaw harp (munnharpe), and performing traditional folk dances. These are not simply traditions preserved for display, they are part of a living culture passed down through generations.
The family is also involved in Kulturpatrulja, a cultural initiative that brings Setesdal's music and dance traditions to audiences around the valley. Through performances and encounters in different locations, the Kulturpatrulja makes this cultural heritage accessible to both visitors and locals.
Photo:
Adrian Leversby, Visit Norway
UNESCO World Heritage
Setesdal's folk music, dance and traditions are internationally recognised. In 2019, the area's traditional practices of stev singing, gangar dance and folk music were included on UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.
The traditional Setesdal bunad is another important part of this heritage. With its distinctive embroidery, colours, silver jewellery and regional variations, the costume reflects a strong local identity and craftsmanship. It remains an important part of celebrations and cultural events in the valley.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
Traditional food: Lefse, pinnekjøtt and glosteik
During the visit, Swedish chef Frida Ronge joins the family in preparing traditional lefse. This soft, thin Norwegian flatbread is often made with potatoes and flour, and has long been part of Norwegian home cooking and celebrations. Making lefse is a craft in itself, with recipes and techniques passed down through generations.
The group also prepares food over an open fire. They cook pinnekjøtt (salted and dried lamb ribs, traditionally served as a Southern/ Western Norwegian Christmas dish) and make glosteik, a traditional way of preparing thin slices of cured lamb leg over an open fire. The glosteik is served wrapped in lefse, making a simple and flavourful combination of two local food traditions.
The visit brings together several sides of Setesdal: family traditions, local ingredients, music, craftsmanship and food prepared in ways that have been part of life in the valley for generations.
Brokkestøylen: Gin, glamping and local food in the mountains
In the mountain village of Brokke, surrounded by the landscapes of Setesdal, lies Brokkestøylen. Run by Gro Furset and Erik Berglihn, this small destination combines accommodation, food, locally made drinks and experiences rooted in the surrounding nature.
Photo:
Iselinn Andersen Visit Sørlandet
A warm welcome from Gro
Arne, Stig and Frida check in at Brokkestøylen and are welcomed by Gro Furset with freshly made Norwegian waffles.
Waffles have a special place in Norwegian food culture. They are often served during coffee breaks, at mountain cabins, local cafés and family gatherings. Norwegian waffles are typically heart-shaped, soft and slightly sweet, and are often served with jam, sour cream or brown cheese. A plate of warm waffles is a familiar way of welcoming guests.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
A taste of the mountains
The visit begins with Erik Berglihn, who introduces the group to Brokkestøylen's own Highland Gin. Erik is a trained master distiller, and his work is closely connected to the landscape around Brokke. The gin is made with botanicals gathered from the surrounding mountains, including juniper and wild herbs that give the spirit its connection to the local landscape.
Photo:
Iselinn Andersen / Visit Sørlandet
Glamping in the Setesdal mountains
For their overnight stay, the team checks into Brokkestøylen's glamping cabins. The accommodation combines the comfort of a hotel stay with the feeling of being close to nature. The small eco-luxury domes are set in peaceful surroundings, with the sound of a nearby stream and the mountains just outside.
Brokkestøylen brings together old and new architecture. The traditional mountain farm building, or støl, dates back to the 1850s, while the newer accommodation and glasshouse add a contemporary touch to the historic setting.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
A dinner made with local ingredients
The day ends with a meal prepared by Gro and Erik, using seasonal ingredients from the surrounding area. Brokkestøylen places great emphasis on local sourcing, wild ingredients, herbs and plants gathered from nature, as well as produce from its own garden.
The kitchen works with the seasons and combines traditional ingredients with modern techniques. The result is a dining experience that reflects the landscape and food culture of Setesdal.
Brokkestøylen has also received recognition for its food and products. Its fireweed vinegar won the Green Processed Products category at Det Norske Måltid 2024/25, while its meadowsweet vinegar received the Speciality/Unique Taste distinction. The Highland Gin has also been recognised internationally.
Folk music and local traditions at Sølvgarden Hotel
At Sølvgarden Hotel on Rysstad, the team gets another opportunity to experience Setesdal's living folk music traditions. They visit a folk music pub at Smedens Bar, where local musicians gather to play traditional music and dance.
Folk music pub
The pub is more than an ordinary hotel bar. It is designed to recreate the atmosphere of an old village general store, inspired by Rysstad Landhandel, which was once an important meeting place in the community. Several times a year, Sølvgarden Hotel hosts folk music evenings where local musicians bring their own instruments and dancing shoes.
Setesdal's musical traditions are especially distinctive, with the Hardanger fiddle and jaw harp among the instruments used. The music and dance have been passed down through generations and remain an important part of the region's cultural identity.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
Norwegian traditions with a Japanese twist
Sølvgarden is also the setting for a cooking session with chef Frida Ronge. Here, she explores Norwegian food traditions and local ingredients, bringing her own culinary background and Japanese influences into the kitchen.
The cooking combines familiar Norwegian ingredients with Japanese techniques and flavours. It is a meeting between two food cultures, with a focus on seasonal produce and the ingredients found in Setesdal.
The result is a fresh take on traditional Norwegian food, showing how local ingredients and food heritage can be interpreted in new ways without losing their connection to the region.
Outdoor adventures and activities in Setesdal
Setesdal offers outdoor experiences throughout the year, with mountains, rivers and changing seasons providing the setting. In this episode of People of the North, Arne Hjeltnes, Stig Bareksten and Frida Ronge explore some of the region's activities, from whitewater rafting on the Otra river with TrollAktiv to hiking up to the day cabin at Hovdenut.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
Skiing at Hovden Alpine Centre and lunch at Alpin Lodge
In winter, Hovden becomes one of Southern Norway's main destinations for alpine skiing. Arne and the team head to Hovden Alpine Centre, the largest ski resort in Southern Norway, with slopes for different skill levels and a mountain setting that makes it a popular winter destination.
After some time on the slopes, they stop for lunch at Hovden Alpin Lodge. Located right in the middle of the ski area, the lodge is a natural meeting point for skiers and visitors. Its restaurant and large terrace offer views over the slopes and surrounding mountain peaks.
The episode also features Stig's Dry Martini sequence filmed in the alpine ski area against the snowy mountain backdrop.
Photo:
Visit Sørlandet
Swimming with a mountain view
After exploring the outdoors, the journey continues to Hovden Fjellbad, a water park in the heart of the mountains. Located where the ski slopes meet the Otra river, it offers swimming and relaxation with views of the surrounding peaks.
One of its most distinctive features is The Aqueduct, an outdoor infinity pool that stretches out above the ski slope. From the water, visitors can enjoy views towards the Otra river and the mountains Hovdenuten and Storenos.
Inside, there are pools for swimming and family fun, water slides, a diving tower and a wellness area with saunas and hot tubs. The centre is open throughout the year, making it an option in both summer and winter.
Photo:
Reiseperler.com
Whitewater rafting
Do as the Poeple of the North crew and joing an adrenaline-filled rafting trip at TrollAktiv in Evje. Located beside the Otra river, TrollAktiv offers guided whitewater rafting through rapids and calmer stretches of the river, surrounded by the natural scenery of Setesdal.
The Otra is the largest river in Southern Norway, running from the mountain areas in the north all the way to Kristiansand. With experienced guides and all the necessary safety equipment, rafting is a fun way to experience the river and the landscape from a different perspective.
Photo:
Marvin Kuhr
Hike to Hovdenut
In the mountains around Hovden, Arne and the team head out on a hike to Hovdenut and its day cabin. The summit stands at 1,119 metres above sea level and offers wide views across the surrounding mountain landscape.
It is a rewarding mountain walk, particularly in autumn when the colours change across the hills and valleys. The cabin is generally open during the green season, depending on weather and trail conditions.
Norwegian brewing traditions meet Japanese sake
In the heart of Setesdal, Bygland Brewery brings old Norwegian brewing traditions into the present. Located at Austad in Bygland, the craft brewery was established in 2017 and draws inspiration from the valley's history, local ingredients and traditional brewing methods.
Photo:
Bygland Bryggeri
Bygland Brewery
One of its distinctive features is the use of kveik, traditional Norwegian farmhouse yeast that has been passed down through generations. The brewery also uses juniper-infused water, a method with deep roots in Nordic brewing culture. The result is a range of drinks that reflect both the heritage and character of Setesdal.
But the brewery also looks beyond Norwegian traditions. Under the name Rannei ,Craft Sake of Norway, it produces sake using Japanese rice and koji alongside Norwegian spring water and kveik. By bringing together Japanese fermentation techniques and Norwegian ingredients, Bygland Brewery has created a rather unusual meeting of two food cultures.
Alongside its beer and sake, the brewery also makes craft soft drinks with local berries and natural flavours. Visitors can explore the brewery's products at its shop, and guided tours and tastings can be arranged by appointment.
Bygland Brewery is a good example of how local traditions can be preserved while making room for new ideas.
Setesdal is a valley in Agder, in Southern Norway. It stretches from the coast near Kristiansand northwards through towns and villages such as Evje, Bygland, Valle and Rysstad, towards Hovden in the mountains.
Setesdal is known for its traditional folk music and dance, distinctive bunad costumes, silver jewellery, craftsmanship and mountain landscapes. The valley also offers outdoor activities throughout the year, from hiking and rafting to skiing and swimming.
There are activities for different interests and seasons. You can go whitewater rafting with TrollAktiv, hike to the day cabin at Hovdenut, ski at Hovden Alpine Centre or visit Hovden Fjellbad. Setesdal also has opportunities for fishing, cycling, cultural experiences and exploring traditional villages.
Yes. TrollAktiv offers guided whitewater rafting on the Otra river near Evje. The river runs through Setesdal, making rafting a popular way to experience the valley from the water.
Setesdal has strong traditions in folk music, dance, traditional clothing and handicrafts. Its musical and dance traditions, including the use of the Hardanger fiddle and jaw harp, are recognised by UNESCO on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.
The Setesdal bunad is a traditional Norwegian folk costume known for its distinctive embroidery, colours and silver jewellery. It reflects the valley's local identity and long tradition of craftsmanship.
Hovden is a mountain destination at the northern end of Setesdal. It is particularly popular for skiing in winter and hiking in summer, as well as year-round swimming and wellness experiences at Hovden Fjellbad.
Yes. Setesdal is a year-round destination. Summer and autumn are good seasons for hiking, cycling, rafting and exploring the cultural heritage, while winter brings skiing, snow-covered landscapes and other mountain activities around Hovden.
Local food experiences can be found throughout the valley, from traditional dishes and homemade lefse to meals made with seasonal ingredients. Places such as Brokkestøylen and Sølvgarden offer opportunities to experience local flavours and food traditions.
The drive from Kristiansand to Evje, in the southern part of Setesdal, takes around one hour. Hovden, further north in the valley, is approximately three hours by car from Kristiansand, depending on road and weather conditions.
