Pockets of History in Lyngdal

Lyngdal town center appears deceptively modern, but you don’t have to search far to uncover fascinating stories.

Paulsens Hotell i Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

"I can imagine there were quite a few grumpy husbands," chuckles Åse Marie Leksbø as she stands in the old classroom of Klokkergården, the sexton's residence that also served as Lyngdal's first school.

Åse Marie Leksbø i Klokkergården i Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

She has just begun recounting the story of the municipality's most famous resident, the pastor’s wife Gustava Kielland. Known as "the mother of women's associations," the author laid the foundation for her fame by doing something unheard of at the time.

"She invited the village women to the best room in the sexton’s residence. That alone was incredible in those days. On top of that, she invited them during the daytime!" Leksbø explains, adding that this particular detail likely caused quite a bit of discontent among the husbands. Weren’t the farm wives supposed to be working at home during the day?

Prestekontor og finstue i Klokkergården, Lyngdal

A Sneak Peek into History

Kielland's "Qvinde-Forening" (women's association) from 1844 soon inspired an entire movement. By 1904, Norway had as many as 3,500 similar associations.

"Gustava’s husband, parish priest Gabriel Kielland, often introduced himself by saying, ‘I am the husband of Gustava Kielland. Then you’ll know who I am.’ Imagine that, being a parish priest in the 1800s," says Åse Marie Leksbø.

Today, Klokkergården houses a mission museum that tells the story of Gustava Kielland and her legacy.

You’re not actually standing in the Kielland couple’s home—the rectory is located on the opposite side of the fields—but two of the rooms are still furnished as if it were the parsonage. Here is the best room where the women met, and just beyond, the pastor's office awaits, complete with a writing desk, Bible, and reading glasses

Skrivepult på Prestegården i Klokkergården, Lyngdal

A Place with a Long History

When the Kielland couple arrived in Lyngdal in 1837, the village was located by the fjord at Agnefest, where Rosfjord Strandhotell and Sørlandsbadet are situated today.

From the sea, vast fields stretched into the valley, which Gustava Kielland described as "a revelation" after being transported to the rectory in a carriol. That doesn’t mean the area where today’s town center is located was untouched land throughout history—far from it.

"Lyngdal has been a center of power for centuries. From the 1600s to the 1700s, power was concentrated around the district judge’s estate and the general's manor. In the town center was an avenue, planted by the district judge for a dignified drive to the church," explains Leksbø.

In the 19th century, road construction led to the emergence of a town center between the two grand estates, complete with a coach station, an inn, and shops.

The Salmon Lords' Hotel

The town's oldest building, Olsens House, is located on the outskirts of this center, with magnificent windows and the year 1711 above the exit door.

Lyngdals eldste hus .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

In the neighboring house to the west, history is even more accessible. There lies Paulsens Hotel, where every plank could tell a story for hours.

Paulsens Hotell, Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

The English salmon lords flocked here to try their luck – Winston Churchill’s father, Lord Randolph Churchill, made the newspaper for having only caught two salmon. And during the war, the lady of the house hid the radio under the divan and listened to broadcasts from London while the German officers celebrated in the neighboring room.

Today, the great-great-grandchild of the first owners, Tor Kristian Gyland, has taken over the operation of the historic hotel with his wife Mette. Plans include a focus on the corporate market and afternoon tea, which will be open to everyone.

If you also choose to stay overnight in the white-painted wooden house, you can look forward to an experience truly worthy of a lord.

"Some of the rooms have English beds. The salmon lords brought their own beds when they arrived. The wooden beds here in Norway weren’t good enough for them," smiles Mette as she shows the rooms upstairs.

"There is soul in this house," she concludes with a smile.

Engelske senger i smijern på Paulsens Hotell i Lyngdal

The School of Old Days

A city fire in 1941 and the post-war understanding of "progress" mean that most of Lyngdal's town center is modern today.

However, you don’t need to go far to escape into the past. In Kvavik by Lyngdalsfjorden, two old potato cellars have been restored.

Gammel potetkjeller i Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

And in the opposite direction, Klokkergården village museum awaits. In addition to the previously mentioned mission museum, Norway's smallest post office, a blacksmith's shop, a barn, and two more old schoolhouses are gathered in the grassy courtyard.

Klokkergården Bygdetun i Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes

In the school museum at the old Vintland School, the former teacher Åse Marie Leksbø is in her element. She shows the spit box, which was filled with moss or sawdust so that spit wouldn’t bounce back, and the birch twigs that the teacher used to smack over dirty fingers.

"The school has fortunately changed quite a lot since then," she smiles.

And although Lyngdal has changed as well, there is still much history within its walls.

Vintland Skole på Klokkergården Bygdetun i Lyngdal .
Photo: Gjermund Glesnes