Island hopping in Arendal

It's just a short hop from the center of Arendal, but when "Kolbjørn III" docks in Kolbjørnsvik, you still feel like you've traveled. From street life and city pulse to white-painted pickets and lazy idyll. For resting heart rate, simply.

And to a piece of southern history of the picturesque kind. After all, the small settlement north-east of Hisøy has not always been a slumbering beauty.

- Kolbjørnsvik had a magistrate from 1711, before Arendal received city status. And there was bustling activity there for a long time, says Hisøy's living history encyclopedia Ulrik Sissener Kirkedam.

In one of the books about the island's history, he lists some of the businesses that have been based here at the outlet of Nidelva: There are shipyards, steam saws and an iron foundry, as well as everything from pubs and lodges to bakers, butchers, milk outlets and eight trading houses.

- You should get off at Nordodden and follow the road from there into the bay. Then you are in Edvard Munch's realm, he says and tells that Munch lived for three months in Kolbjørnsvik.

Around Hisøy by bike

Furthermore, the Hisøy resident recommends taking the trip around the headland on the opposite side of "Vika" before taking the bike south. (Bridges mean you can also visit both Hisøy and Tromøy by car.)

The quiet Sandvigveien winds past the stately country estate of Gimle on the way out to Sandvigen. Today, the harbor is pure southern idyll, with clucking small boats and well-kept gardens. But if you go out on the headland, west of the lighthouse, you quickly understand how important the place once was, with a customs station and 12 permanent pilots stationed. Here Galtesund opens up, and "the second lighthouse", Store and Lille Torungen, lie directly in the sea.

Enjoy how the sea breeze ruffles your hair before heading up to Sandvigen Fort for an even more magnificent view.

Now maybe a bath tempts you? Then it is fitting that the sandy beaches and rocky cliffs in Stølsviga await a short cycle ride - or an even nicer coastal path on foot - further west.

The island pearl Merdø

Back in Arendal, new adventures await a short ferry ride away. Tromøy is the largest island, but in the summer the city's scheduled boats also entice with another island:

Merdø is a car-free paradise - you can't even cycle there. So take your legs, among old southern country houses and small paths that wind up to the island's beaches and viewpoints. On the outside, the sea and pebble beaches await, while the north side is so warm and quiet that you can easily forget that you are actually on the outermost island of the archipelago.

- Merdø was one of the most important ports of departure in Southern Norway, with a safe harbor and access from both sides. On many old charts, Merdø is actually clearly marked while Arendal is not mentioned, says guide Lucas Haslund Fagerak at the Merdøgård archipelago museum.

The small museum is Sørlandet's best-preserved skipper's home from the 18th century and shows what riches could be created out here in the age of sailing ships.

At most, 165 people lived on Merdø. Today, the number of permanent residents is one. In return, he runs Merdø Kro and offers pizza from an Italian pizza oven.

- Merdø is beautiful all year round, even in winter. But spring is my favourite, says Trond Helle and adds that he opens the inn on Maundy Thursday every year.

A tour of Tromøy

The last ferry trip from Arendal leads over to Tromøy. With over 12 kilometers from head to toe, it is the largest island in Southern Norway - and one that is made for exploration at a leisurely pace.

- The roads here are perfect for cycling. There are lots of ups and downs, but the slopes are never long. And there is almost no traffic, say Clemens Baur and Ulrike Brucker, while eating a packed lunch on the pier in Sildevig with their son Luca (4.5 years).

They are just as excited about their base on Tromøy, Raet camping. The place where the glamping is located, Hoveodden at the far end of Skagerrak, is an eldorado for activities. Here the hiking trails lead between lovely sandy beaches on the inside along the wedge and eternal pebble beaches on the opposite side of the pine forest. There is a climbing park and a huge offer both on land.

For more classic wellness, you can check in at Arendal Herregaard Spa & Resort, which serves everything from award-winning spa treatments to stone oven pizza and a five-course dinner.

However, the highlights start long before you get to Hove. Already halfway out along the Galtesund, you come to Bratteklev Shipyard, where everything is as it was when the last ship left the docks here in 1924.

- We are the only preserved shipyard from the sailing ship era in the whole of Norway. And a kind of commemorative place for the transition from sail to steam, and from small schooners to today's giant ships, explains managing director Simen Omang as he shows around the sawmill where all machines were belt driven.

At the far end of the strait, you pass the beautiful Torjusholmen before the cliffs turn east towards the port of Revesand. Steinar Larsen has stood there with a drawing pad and pencils.

- Tromøy is a gem, and especially Revesand. Here I find many nice motifs, he says as he sketches the view: A real southern idyll of white-painted skipper's houses and red sea arches over the wharves.

The large island still has more to offer than lapping waves and sea air. On the hill above Raet National Park, the 12th-century church Tromøy church is enthroned, while Studio Spornes, a stone's throw away, serves fabled cinnamon rolls in the summer.

When you finally pass the Tromøy Bridge, you are back on the mainland. And maybe a little warm? In that case, all you have to do is jump into the sea - or wade - at the Løkholmen bathing area, before you set foot in Arendal. And tomorrow there are ferries to the islands again, if you want to island hop more.